The Present History

Walking parallel to the Gave de Pau, the river running through downtown Pau, France, and along the Boulevard de Pyrenees. I followed the path through the Parc du Château and i realized that it’s like walking back in time. As I go along the Boulevard and look out to the Pyrenees, I can witness the same view that brought so many English visitors during the early 19th century. Though to some, the Pyrenees Mountains, along with the Gave de Pau, were much more than a beautiful sight. 

After the Napoleonic Peninsula wars, the Wellington Army made their way across the Pyrenees Mountains where they found the strategically located town of Pau. Pau sits a little over 80 kilometers from the Pyrenees Mountains along the natural, mountain river, the Gave de Pau. The natural protection caused Wellington to choose Pau as the city to set up a British military camp. This choice led Pau to become the city it is today (Fredric). 

As the British soldiers resided in Pau, they began to fall in love with it. With its mild winters and warm summers, Pau was quickly noticed as a nice place to live. The new British inhabitants began to notice that it was a great place to practice their pastimes from back home. They began to influence the Palois, the inhabitants of Pau. They brought activities such as cricket and horseback riding, leading to the construction of the Hippodrome de Pau in the mid 19th century. Even some Scottish soldiers would practice their golf. Pau began to receive a good reputation back among the higher class of England (Fredric). 

Continuing down the Boulevard de Pyrenees, I notice beautiful grand English architecture. Placed right on the Boulevard with an amazing view of the Pyrenees lies a magnificent hotel that almost leaves the Château de Pau in its shadow. The hotel came about after the enormous flow of English travelers came after a book was written about Pau by the author Dr. Alexander Taylor. Around the mid 19th century from fall to spring many high class English would pour into Pau. This led to the hotel being equipped with many revolutionary ideas for its time. It included things such as room service, electricity, and the first elevator in a hotel in France. It included many luxuries to welcome its high class visitors. As more and more English began to realize how much cheaper it was to live in Pau compared to England they began to flock. The French welcomed their visitors who brought an economic boom with them. They built large houses with English gardens and hired valets, gardeners, and cooks (Fredric). Pau was turning into a large city from the small village it was before. The French embraced the English sports and soon Pau became a well known sports hub. 

In the 1850’s, the first golf club on mainland Europe was built in Pau. For almost fifty years, the only people allowed to join were English. The only French who could even go on the green were gardeners or caddies. As the sports in Pau began to pick up, newspapers around the world kept track of the results. Places as far as New York could keep up to date with the sports results. Today the Pau Golf Club has over 700 members and part of the old club house has been renovated and turned into a museum (Fredric). Golf lovers from all over the world still come to play on the once exclusive course. 

The Boulevard stretches over a mile with panoramic view of the Pyrenees Mountains. As more and more British travelers began to come to Pau, they started to take their leisure activities to the mountains. Fox hunting was a very big sport in England at the time, and quickly made its way to Pau. Fox hunting consists of riding horseback following dogs who are trained to track the scent. Once the fox is caught by the dogs it is killed by the riders. The British regularly held fox hunts and the base of the Pyrenees. Though this continued hunting led to the fox population diminishing almost to extinction. Fox hunts are still held today in Pau, but with fake fox (Fredric).  

Continuing down the boulevard, looking over the railing I can see numbers and names painted on the road from the Grand Prix de Pau. Races in Pau first started in the beginning of the 20th century and has continued ever since. The first actual Grand Prix de Pau commenced in 1933. Today, the race is split into two. Depending on the year, before of after the modern car race, there is the Grand Prix de Pau Historique which hosts historic cars (Pau). Every May, the Grand Prix de Pau brings people from all over the world to see the iconic races. 

Walking to the end of the Boulevard, I see a castle spewing with history. The Château de Pau was built in the Middle Ages. Though it was renovated, most recently, in the 19th century, bringing it back to its beautiful royal presence. During the mid 16th century, King Henry IV was born at the Château (Château). Walking through the Château itself, I witness the beautiful royal red traced throughout. I can see furniture that is centuries old and even the turtle shell that was used as a cradle for King Henry IV. Above the doors and windows are sculptures that exemplify the wealth of the inhabitants. 

The Château was originally constructed as a defense fortress atop a hill, with a perfect view of the city. Though, what I see as I walk around today is the royal palace it was renovated into during the Renaissance. During the renovation, the old defending walls were torn down (Château). In front of the Château a royal garden was built, filled with trees and flowers as a typical French garden. Though I can still see remanence of the defense aspect of the castle, specifically with the gate and the tower that were left unchanged. 

Looking along the Boulevard de Pyrenees, I can see centuries of history. I can see the effects of tourism and globalization. I can see the transformation of French architecture over the years. As I walk along the Boulevard, I see century old buildings preserved alongside modern buildings. Pau is like a time capsule preserving its history while also continuing to expand. The same views and attractions that brought brought visitors centuries ago continue to bring them today. 

Works Cited

“Château De Pau.” Bon Tourism, 30 Mar. 2018, www.bontourism.com/en/content/ch%C3%A2teau-de-pau.

Fredric de Poligny. “Pau, It's Such a British City!” Just About Travel,30 Mar. 2018, 14 July 2014, www.justabouttravel.net/2014/07/14/pau/.

“Pau.” RacingCircuits.info, 30 Mar. 2018, racingcircuits.info/europe/france/pau.html#.Wsp26S-B2CQ.